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Essential Skills Menus

Disc Menus

 Disc One
 Six Sewing Lessons
  • Getting Started
  • Pattern Savvy &Tracing multi-sized patterns
  • Principles of Cutting
  • Transferring Markings
  • Interfacing
  • Pressing
 We discuss the most essential tools of the trade.
 Which measurement do I use if I want to making a skirt?
 What do I have to remember when cutting out my garment?
 Which markings do I transfer to my pattern pieces?
 What is Interfacing?
 Why do I have to press during the sewing process?

 
 Disc Two
 Techniques A - D
Buttonholes
Collars
  • Flat Collar
  • Shawl Collar
  • Shirt Collar with Collar Stand
  • Shirt Collar with Collar Stand Cut in One
  • Stand up Collar
Cuffs
  • Long Sleeve Cuff
  • Mock Turn Up Cuff
Darts
  • Plain Darts
  • Contour Darts
  • Curved Darts
 
Buttons are very important on a garment. They can make or break a well made outfit.

Collars - have two visible layers called the upper and under collar.  Almost all collars have a third unseen layer called interfacing. 




Cuffs - Buttoned and snug or turned up and loose, cuffs are a popular detail on sleeves and trouser legs.

Darts - Shape in a garment is created by darts, pleats or gathers.
 Disc 3
 Techniques F - Pl
 Facings
  • Bias Bindings
  • Front Blouse
  • Sleeve with 'V'
  • Slits
  • Square Neck
  • Understitching
Finishing Raw Edges
  • Overlocking
  • Pinking Shears
  • Zig zagging
Gathering & Easing
  • Easing
  • Gathered Skirt
  • Gathered Sleeve
  • Gathered Tulle & Heavy Fabric
Hems
  • Narrow Curved
  • Narrow Machined
  • Machine Hemming
Mitred Corners

Plackets -Front Blouse

Pleats
 Facings - The purpose of a facing is to neatly finish and conceal a raw edge.






Finishing Raw Edges
Seams have raw edges raw edges that need to be finished to prevent ravelling and to give a pleasing appearance to the inside of the garment.  This is especially important in unlined garments.
Gathering - Usually a larger garment edge is gathered to fit a shorter garment edge.

Easing - occurs when one seam edge is slightly longer than the other edge to which it is joined.



Hems are used as a finish for lower edges of garments. In this DVD set we show you how to  sew 3
different 'turned up' hems.


Mitring is a neat and easy way to eliminate bulk at corners.


Pleats are folds of fabric that are made to take in fullness to create shape in the garment.
 Disc Four
 Techniques Po - Sl
 Pockets
  • Jeans Pocket
  • Lined Patch Pocket with flap
  • Side Seam Pocket
  • Side Slant Pocket
  • Unlined Patch Pocket
Seams
  • Flat Felled Seam
  • Concave / Convex Seam
  • Princess Seam
  • Straight Seam
Sleeves
  • Kimono Sleeve
  • Raglan Sleeve
  • Set in Sleeve
Sleeve Openings
  • Continuous Lap
  • Dart Placket
  • In Seam Placket
  • Pleat Placket
Slits
  • Covered Slit / Vent
  • Open Slit
 Pockets can be functional, decorative and / or a fashion statement.  They may be on the inside or outside of a garment. Pockets are one of the details that can make your garment look well made if done properly.




A seam is a row of machine stitching that holds together two or more layers of fabric. Seams can join curved edges and require specific techniques to make this work.


Sleeves We show you the three types of sleeves in our DVDs but there are many variations on these.




Sleeve openings / plackets
An attached cuff can be a continuous band cuff, or it can have a cuff opening / placket. 
If the cuff opens, there is always a corresponding sleeve opening / placket.


Slits and Vents A vent is made from overlapping fabric that has been cut on at the bottom of a skirt or tailored sleeve. 
A slit is usually an opening in a seam.
 Disc Five
 Techniques Sl - Z
 Stitching By Hand
  • Slip Stitch
  • Tacking / Basting
Stitching By Machine
  • Stay Stitching
  • Stretch Stitching
  • Top Stitching
Waistbands
  • Added Waistband
  • Encased Waistband
  • Straight Waistband
Yokes
  • Shirt Yoke
  • Skirt Yoke
Zips
  • Lapped Zip
  • Invisible Zip with Facing
  • Ladies Fly Zip with Crutch Seam
 Hand Stitching All garments were made by hand until the 1800s.  Most garments will need some forms of handstitching to complete them.

Machine Stitching is the most productive process in the assembly process of your garment.  Success depends on accuracy at every step.  All that is needed is practice.



Waistbands Can be straight, faced or elasticated.




Yokes are fitted portions of garments, usually at the shoulders or hips, designed to support the rest of the garment hanging from it.


Zips have a reputation for being difficult to install.  Many sewers unneccessarily avoid patterns that have zippers in them.  Don't be one of them.  By the step by step lessons, you can now sew any zip needed for your garment.

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